Portography: A Tale of Tiles, Treats and Treasure

Porto, Portugal's second largest city, is a captivating blend of old world charm and modern vibrancy. Nestled along the Douro River, this hilly city offers a unique experience for travellers. Join me as I recount my adventure in this enchanting destination.

Getting There and Around
My journey began with a Ryanair flight touching down in Porto. Once in the city, I quickly learned that the Andante Card is a traveller's best friend. This rechargeable card works for buses, metro and some trains, making it easy to navigate Porto's public transport system. A 45-minute train ride from the airport brought me to the heart of the city .

Tip: Purchase an Andante card at the airport and load it with enough trips for your stay. It'll save you time and hassle during your exploration.

​Accomodation: Lost Inn Hostel
I stayed at the Lost Inn Hostel, a charming place that I'd recommend to fellow travellers. However, a word of caution: Porto's famous hills make themselves known right away! The steep climb to the hostel with my luggage was quite the workout.

Tip: Pack light if you can, or consider taking a taxi for that initial journey if you have heavy luggage.

​Architectural Marvels: 
São Bento Station
No visit to Porto is complete without a stop at São Bento station. This isn't just a transport hub; it's a living museum. The station's atrium is adorned with roughly 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting scenes from Portuguese history. Even if you are not catching a train, it's worth a visit just to admire the artistry.

​Capela das Almas
A short walk from São Bento, I stumbled upon the Capela das Almas (Chapel of Souls). This church stopped me in my tracks with its exterior completely covered in blue and white azulejo tiles. The scenes depicted on the tiles tell stories from the lives of various saints, creating a mesmerizing blue tapestry against the urban landscape.

​Elevador da Ribeira
The Elevador da Ribeira is a unique piece of urban engineering in Porto. This funicular railway connects the Ribeira district at the riverside with the higher parts of the city. It's not just a means of transport but also offers fantastic views of the city and the Douro River. 

​Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto)
The Porto Cathedral is one of the city's oldest monuments. This 12th-century Romanesque church sits atop a hill overlooking the city. Its fortress-like exterior reflects its historical role as both a place of worship and a defensive structure. Inside, you will find beautiful cloisters with azulejo tiles depicting scenes from the Song of Solomon. Their terrace offers panoramic views of Porto and the Douro River.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
Igreja de Santo Idefonso is another gem showcasing Porto's love for azulejo tiles. The church's facade is covered in intricate blue and white tiles, creating a stunning visual effect. It is a perfect example of how even everyday building in Porto can be works of art.

Unique Streets of Porto:
The Street Art Rabbit
While wandering the streets of Porto, I stumbled upon an unexpected sight - a large rabbit mural made entirely of trash. This piece, created by Portuguese artist Bordalo II, is part of his "big Trash Animals" series. It is a striking example of hotw Porto embraces urban art, turning even discarded items into something beautiful and thought-provoking.

​Rua das Flores
Rua das Flores is one of Porto's most charming streets. Once home to wealthy merchants and goldsmiths, it is now a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare lined with cafes, shops and street performers. It is the perfect place for a leisurely stroll and people watching.

​Livraria Lello
No visit to Porto is complete without a stop at Livraria Lello, often cited as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. with its Neo-Gothic facade and stunning Art Nouveau interior featuring a grand staircase, stained glass ceiling and ornate bookshelves. It is easy to see why this bookstore is so famous.

Tip: Book your tickets in advance and arrive early to avoid long queues. The unique book covers you will find here make for great souvenirs.

Culinary Adventures:
Bifana: A Portuguese Classic
In a cozy homely cafe near my hostel, I had my first encounter with Porto's local delicacy, the Bifana sandwich. This traditional sandwich consists of thinly sliced pork marinated in a blend of spices and white wine, then served in a soft roll. The simplicity of this dish belies its delicious flavour - it quickly became one of my favourite meals in Porto.

Confeitaria do Bolhão
For a taste of old-world charm, I visited Confeitaria do Bolhão. This vintage cafe feels like stepping back in time. The art nouveau decor and traditional pastries make it a perfect spot for a mid-afternoon treat. Don't miss trying pastel de nata (custard tart) - it's a Portuguese classic.

Café Majestic
Near Confeitaria do Bolhão, you'll find the famous Café Majestic. Opened in 1921, this Art Nouveau gem is considered one of the most beautiful cafes in the world. With its ornate interiors, gilded frames and leather upholstery, stepping into cafe majestic feels like travelling back in time to the Belle Époque. Café Majestic is famous for its Francesinha - a Porto invention consisting of layers of ham, sausage and steak between two slices of bread, covered with melted cheese and a spicy tomato and beer sauce. It's often served with a side of fries. While it is a must-try for many visitors, I found it a bit too rich for my taste.

​Mercado do Bolhão
The recently renovated Mercado do Bolhão is a must-visit for food lovers. This two-storey market is filled with stalls selling fresh produce, meats, cheese and local specialties. It's a great place to sample local products and soak in the lively atmosphere of a traditional Portuguese market.

Mercado Beira Rio
I took a stroll through Mercado Beira Rio, a renovated market space. While I didn't eat there, the vibrant atmosphere and array of local products made for an interesting visit. It's a great place to get a feel for local life and perhaps pick up some Portuguese specialties to take home.

​Pastel de Bacalhau
Near Mercado Beira Rio, I discovered a shop selling a unique local delicacy - pastel de bacalhau. This is a bread pastry filled with codfish and often served with a glass of port wine. The combination of flavours is truly exquisite and a must-try for any visitor to Porto.

The Colourful World of Canned Fish
One of the most visually striking shops I encountered near Pastel de Bacalhau. This vibrant store specialises in canned sardines, with each tin labeled by year. The bright, retro-style graphics make these tins collector's items in their own right. It's a feast for the eyes and a great place to pick up unique souvenirs. 

Unexpected Beauty: Tiled Starbucks and McDonald's
Even chain establishments in Porto embrace the city's love for azulejo tiles. The local Starbucks features beautiful mosaic tilework, while the McDonald's on Avenida dos Aliados is housed in a stunning Art Deco building. It is considered one of the most beautiful McDonald's in the world and even serves beer.

​Sunset Views
One of my favourite experiences was climbing the steep, narrow alleys to reach one of Porto's famous viewpoints, also known as Miradouros. The climb was challenging, but the reward was a breathtaking sunset view over the city and the Douro River. The golden light washing over Porto's terracotta roofs creates a scene that I won't forget. 

Tip: The Miradouro da Vitória and Miradouro da Serra do pilar both offer stunning panoramic views. Bring a camera and arrive before sunset to secure a good spot.

​Cais da Ribeira
For a perfect end to the day, I took a walk along Cais da Ribeira. This picturesque riverfront promenade is lined with colourful traditional houses, bustling cafes and restaurants. As the sun sets, the area comes alive with street performers and diners enjoying al fresco meals. The view of the Dom Luis I Bridge illuminate at night is truly spectacular

Final Thoughts
Porto is a city that continually surprises and delights. From its famous tiled facades to unexpected street art, from traditional bifanas to ornate cafes, every corner seems to hold a new discovery. Where you are admiring the view from Jardim do Morro, exploring the stacks at Livraria Lello, or simply enjoying a pastel de bacalhau by the river, Porto offers a rich tapestry of experiences that will leave you longing to return. Just remember to bring comfortable walking shoes - those hills are non joke!